“There’s a guy at work who makes amazing food and is doing a pop-up. Can you come and then tell everyone about it?” As far as requests go, this one is flattering, puzzling and carries a faint whiff of danger. Friend’s recommendations aren’t always to be trusted.

I get emails from friends all the time […]

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Back to Fernandez and Leluu

Fernandez & Leluu was one of the first supper clubs I went to last year and it’s where I learned my supper club skills. I was tutored in the importance of keeping hold of your cutlery, instructed in the art of dining […]

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Minted mutton with gratin potatoes, roasted carrots and greens

The natural home of the underground restaurant is North East London, in particular Hackney. There’s something about living rooms in Shoreditch, Daltson and Stoke Newington that suit mismatched wooden tables, charity shop dinner sets, folding chairs and fairy lights. Pop up […]

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Stargazy pie

When I saw that The Underground Restaurant was holding an evening based on Patrick O’Brian’s novels, featuring the finest dishes from the Royal Navy’s repertoire, I knew I had to go. Crusty, creamy fish pies, boiled puddings so dense they can double as canon […]

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Beetroot dip

In London’s grimly trendy East End there’s barely a shabby chic living room that hasn’t been filled with behatted and tight-trousered diners, eager to experience the illicit thrill of eating in a secret restaurant. The inverse ostentation of being in the know but keeping the details quiet made […]

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Tea and jam One of the prizes that attracted fevered, martini-fuelled bidding at the Blaggers’ Banquet auction was afternoon tea at The Hidden Tearoom. The gracious proprietress of The Hidden Tearoom, Lady Gray, was at the Banquet and her descriptions of the cake feast that awaited the […]

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