Hello sunshine

A custard tart is a noble thing. A silken puddle of sunshine in a pastry case. Justin Gellatly, creator of St John’s revered custard doughnuts and now baker of delicious things in his own pastry palace, Bread Ahead, has a […]

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Pink cake

On Friday evening I sidled into a basement bar in Farringdon. My hat was low, my collar high, my demeanour shifty and in my hand I had a folded reusable shopping bag that I was prepared to use. I was there to meet my dealer. My rhubarb dealer.

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Gala pork pie

On May 4, 2011 By

Gala pork pie

If there was a silver lining to the sloe gin taste off, it was the gala pork pie we used to line our stomachs. We actually ate it as a light starter and then followed it with a full English, as there was some concern about what would […]

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Apple and quince paste pie

It’s 3 weeks until I go to Ballymaloe and I’m working hard to use up all the half bags and rusting tins of food that I’ve gathered around me for the past couple of months/years. Some of it’s easier to cook with than others, and some […]

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Simnel cake

Most years I bake a simnel cake for Mothering Sunday and most years it’s eaten by my dad, slice by slice over a week or two. Really, I should start a tradition of baking a tower of Mothering Sunday profiteroles. Ma G&C would appreciate those a lot more.

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Bay and lemon rice pudding

Spring either began on the 1st of March or it’s about to begin on the 20th-21st March. Whichever side of this fierce seasonal debate you fall on, it remains a fact that March is hammering on the windows, ripping through the hedges, trying to blow down our fence posts […]

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Soaked marmalade loaf cake

Before Christmas I spent a long evening finely shredding lemon and lime peel to make a lot of jars of lemon and lime marmalade flavoured with a splash of gin. I didn’t quite get the recipe right – not enough pectin to deal with the gin […]

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Medieval spiced beef stew

If there is one certain rule in cooking, it’s that you should never cook something new for a dinner party. Never put yourself through the stress, all the cook books and writers shrewdly advise. Stick to what you know. And this is good advice, but it […]

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Medieval rice pudding

If you’ve made and eaten your medieval Chicken in cumin sauce, you’re probably thinking to yourself: “That was a fairly filling plate of meat, bread and vegetables but what I need right now is a pudding so calorific it will sink me like an overburdened container ship.” Fortunately […]

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Chicken in cumin sauce

On February 9, 2010 By

Chicken in cumin sauce

As anyone who’s had the misfortune to walk through a town centre with me will confirm, I can’t resist a charity shop. I have to go in and inspect the cookery books, looking for original, interesting or just plain sticky, well-used tomes.

One of my latest buys (£2.50, thank […]

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