Around the world in Jewish food

I often have cravings for what I hazily think of as Middle Eastern food, a term I use to cover a culinary and geographic area stretching from Turkey through Syria, Iran, Iraq, Saudi Arabia and nibbling into North Africa and the ‘Stans at either […]

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Peking roast duck

Looking back at the reviews I wrote of my Trans-Mongolian train trip, I see I’ve written up 5 meals in Ulaanbaatar and just 2 in Beijing. This needs to be corrected. Even the bad meals in Beijing were a sensory explosion compared to the bland meat’n’wheat fare we stopped up our […]

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Beer and wine

I have an excellent memory for birthdays. If it’s your birthday and I know you, you can be sure that I’ve bought you a birthday card and maybe even a thoughtful gift if we’ve known each other long enough. But you may not get the card and […]

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Bellerina’s pint

Last year I put out an appeal on twitter for somewhere to eat near the Barbican. Food Urchin recommended the Fox and Anchor and as Bellerina and I like a pub, we settled in for a dinner of oysters, scotch egg and goose […]

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Byron, Soho

On March 7, 2010 By

Byron hamburger

Before I started food blogging, I didn’t think about hamburgers much. In the summer, when barbecue smoke is drifting from everyone’s balcony and back garden, I’d think about burgers. I’d imagine a burnt slab of mince in a bun with some ketchup, a can of lager and a fat hot dog […]

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Minted mutton with gratin potatoes, roasted carrots and greens

The natural home of the underground restaurant is North East London, in particular Hackney. There’s something about living rooms in Shoreditch, Daltson and Stoke Newington that suit mismatched wooden tables, charity shop dinner sets, folding chairs and fairy lights. Pop up […]

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Roast duck curry, kerabu salad and tow yu buk

On Friday Bellerina and I had been to the Turkish baths to sweat our cares away. Or, at least, I had sweated them away. While Bellerina lounged about looking flushed and dewy, I staggered from hot room to […]

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Stargazy pie

When I saw that The Underground Restaurant was holding an evening based on Patrick O’Brian’s novels, featuring the finest dishes from the Royal Navy’s repertoire, I knew I had to go. Crusty, creamy fish pies, boiled puddings so dense they can double as canon […]

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Roast beef platter

At the end of 2009 Hix, Soho, was the big restaurant opening that had everyone in London who thinks with their stomachs talking and praising and slathering. I read, I wanted but I had Christmas presents to buy. So Hix went onto my list for January.

And I […]

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Sedap, Old Street

On January 27, 2010 By

Kerabu salad

The geography of the London in my mind and the London that really exists doesn’t always match up. When I think of Shoreditch and Old Street, I think of small, twisting streets; dark, leaning buildings held together with scaffolding; and a howling strip of traffic bulldozing its way through them. Restaurants […]

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