I met Chris in a pub an hour or so before we were due at ROKA. We sat at a dirty table in unforgiving light, drank American beer and talked about global warming. In that kind of environment, a sense of fatalistic nihilism is inevitable. We wondered which countries would sink, and how far north we’d […]

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When I think of Easter, I think of Greek food. I don’t know why. Perhaps it’s the way the weather is warming up. That first hazy hint of sunshine that sends my mind southwards, towards the Aegean. To blue skies, blue seas, lamb roasted with oregano, spinach pie and feta crumbled […]

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Another year is done, and I am a little older and a lot more shameless. That’s the best thing about ageing. As I inch further and further along my timeline, I realise there’s less and less stuff for me to worry about.

I had dinner at The Camberwell Arms on New Year’s Eve. […]

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Noma, Copenhagen

On December 31, 2015 By

I thought a lot about shoes when I was packing to go to Noma. I wanted to wear the right shoes.

We were flying to Copenhagen for two nights. Arrive late Friday, eat lunch at Noma on Saturday, go home Sunday. Nothing else booked. Nothing else planned. It was going to be cold and […]

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10 years ago Sara and I cemented our friendship over a year-long cookery course at a college in Richmond. It was called ‘An Introduction to French Cooking Techniques’ and it was tremendous. We learned how to gut, scale and fillet fish; tie up a joint for roasting; debone a chicken; make hollandaise sauce; […]

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You may have noticed a lot of Rick Stein in my previous blog post about Padstow. It’s not nicknamed Padstein for nothing. Four restaurants, a cookery school, deli, patisserie, gift shop, fishmongers, 39 rooms and one cottage to rent in the town make for quite a presence. But […]

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Eating Padstow, Cornwall

On November 20, 2015 By

You’ve heard of Padstow, haven’t you? Of course you have. It’s a small fishing village on the North Coast of Cornwall with just under 3,000 inhabitants and, staggeringly, 500,000 day trippers every year. The reason they come? Rick Stein.

It started in 1974, when Rick and Jill Stein bought a nightclub on the […]

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“There’s a guy at work who makes amazing food and is doing a pop-up. Can you come and then tell everyone about it?” As far as requests go, this one is flattering, puzzling and carries a faint whiff of danger. Friend’s recommendations aren’t always to be trusted.

I get emails from friends all the time […]

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Symmetry snacks

Last week I swapped London’s swelter for the low skies and sweet air of Scotland. There was a lot of talk, before we set off, about how this was going to be a week of relaxation, balance and health. What the ‘health’ bit would involve was unclear, but […]

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Cow yoga is an important part of the traditions of Asturias

If you’ve read my last two posts about my press trip to Asturias, then you’re probably thinking: how can I get to this land of cheese and cider and where shall I stay when I […]

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