I look for love in all the wrong places. In crisp packets and biscuit barrels, chocolate bars and sandwiches. It’s a strange sort of love. One that’s born out of unwholesome things. But I can’t help seeking it out, even though I know it’s no good for me.

Earlier this year […]

Continue Reading

Back in January my employers got in boatloads of bergamots and I ran a little mad with them. I made bergamot curd, bergamot cake, and no glass of water was complete without a slice of bergamot. Bergamot, bergamot, bergamot. Everything was bergamot. But what would I […]

Continue Reading

Easter was early this year, and so was the wild garlic. Thick-leaved clumps of it have sprouted up and all the parks have their secret patches. I haven’t gone out picking it this year because Danny’s garden is nothing but wild garlic, and he is keen to find homes for this stinking, […]

Continue Reading

There were two black-spotted bananas in the office fruit bowl. They had that sagging look. The kind that means the skin is ready to fall off and the banana is humming with sugar. I felt sorry for them, those poor forgotten bananas. So, in the spirit of no banana being left behind, I […]

Continue Reading

We always ate fish on Good Friday. Mostly in the form of fish pies, although a few goujons and beer-battered fillets also appeared on the table as the years ran along. I was in my 20s when I found out why we ate fish on Good Friday: we were fasting. If eating breakfast […]

Continue Reading

I originally published this recipe on March 17th 2010, a month before I went to Ballymaloe to learn how to cook. It was my St Patrick’s Day post and marked the final countdown to moving to Ireland for three months. A time of using up things, packing up things, […]

Continue Reading

 

When I think of Easter, I think of Greek food. I don’t know why. Perhaps it’s the way the weather is warming up. That first hazy hint of sunshine that sends my mind southwards, towards the Aegean. To blue skies, blue seas, lamb roasted with oregano, spinach pie and feta crumbled […]

Continue Reading

Funny how, as a grown-up, jelly disappears from your diet. You couldn’t have a party without bowls of jelly and ice cream when I was little. Our school always had square plastic dishes of jelly on the lunch menu, topped with fake cream and diamond shaped sweets. And we ate it after dinner […]

Continue Reading

Do you know how to order a Sambey Jagey? You stand at the bar, leaning at a 45° angle – ideally forwards, but often backwards. You point your index finger towards the heavens (left or right, whichever you prefer) and revolve it slowly, painting circles in the sky. When the barman […]

Continue Reading

Around about this time last year I received an email asking if I’d be interested in contributing to a cookbook devoted to the majesty of kale. Of course I would. I love kale. I like it sweated in butter with garlic and chilli. I eat it baked to a frazzled crisp and coated in salt. […]

Continue Reading