Shepherd’s Pie

On February 24, 2016 By

There was a time when I always knew what we were going to eat for dinner. That time was when my mum was in charge. Sunday was a roast, obviously. If it had been a roast chicken, then there would be chicken soup and dumplings on Monday. Wednesday was cod in parsley […]

Continue Reading

Do you know how to order a Sambey Jagey? You stand at the bar, leaning at a 45° angle – ideally forwards, but often backwards. You point your index finger towards the heavens (left or right, whichever you prefer) and revolve it slowly, painting circles in the sky. When the barman comes […]

Continue Reading

Around about this time last year I received an email asking if I’d be interested in contributing to a cookbook devoted to the majesty of kale. Of course I would. I love kale. I like it sweated in butter with garlic and chilli. I eat it baked to a frazzled crisp and coated in salt. […]

Continue Reading

Masala Hot Chocolate

On January 31, 2016 By

This winter in London has been very back and forward. One day it’s warm pavements, milky sunshine and the squeak of new grass growing in the park. The next it’s grey wool skies, rain in buckets and wind that chills your heart. It feels lees like winter and more like more like […]

Continue Reading

This week it was my friend Naomi’s birthday. Naomi, along with Gemma, founded the Band of Bakers, a baking club that I erratically attend, normally with something terrible and childish squashed in a Tupperware tub. Like the tower of popcorn, M&Ms and pretzels that I […]

Continue Reading

Bergamot Curd

On January 20, 2016 By

It’s the third week of January and I am still crazy for citrus. I think it’s down to the excitement at work. Every year there is general rejoicing when the blood oranges arrive, but this time we’ve gone even more mad for vitamin C. There are kumquats […]

Continue Reading

It snowed a little last night. Not a lot. Just enough to edge the roofs and walls with white, and puddle in ashy heaps in garden corners. By mid-morning it was all gone. The grey wool sky stayed dry and what sun made it through the clouds melted the snow. A cold, unmagical day that […]

Continue Reading

I’d meant to make this salad with burrata, but the bit of South East London I live in hasn’t gentrified sufficiently for there to be bowls of burrata in the delicatessens, just a wide range of buffalo mozzarellas. In hindsight, this made my life easier. If I had got hold of a soft ball of […]

Continue Reading

Another year is done, and I am a little older and a lot more shameless. That’s the best thing about ageing. As I inch further and further along my timeline, I realise there’s less and less stuff for me to worry about.

I had dinner at The Camberwell Arms on New Year’s Eve. […]

Continue Reading

Noma, Copenhagen

On December 31, 2015 By

I thought a lot about shoes when I was packing to go to Noma. I wanted to wear the right shoes.

We were flying to Copenhagen for two nights. Arrive late Friday, eat lunch at Noma on Saturday, go home Sunday. Nothing else booked. Nothing else planned. It was going to be cold and […]

Continue Reading